Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Another question Simon. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Thank you. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Simon. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. 1 talking about this. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. top of page. Any other recommendations? I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. No it would look good without a tie. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. I understand there a differences in style obviously. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Includes access to the digital magazine. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Hi Simon. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. It looks great. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Hey Justin. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Simon. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. As this can take a year or so? Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Impressive finish, congratulations! Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Wonderful site! Still strikes me as cracking value though. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Richard. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Dear Simon, Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Really great blog. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Ill ask. Thanks Simon. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Free shipping for many products! PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. First fitting was very compromised. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. 829 posts. But yes, I know the trend you mean. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Thanks. A bit more expensive but still good. This looks perfect! I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Today. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Wonderful. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Hi Calvin, Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Very nice suit. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. 2. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? This is slightly out of my budget. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Thank you. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. LOVABLE BROGUE. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. 192 following. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Apparel & clothing. Brilliant. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. The prices are comparable. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. A.) Just an idea. Thank you very much for your assistance. thanks! I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Very flattering! ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. One of your best suits in my opinion! When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Would W&S be a good option. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Thanks for this Simon. Do you know anything about her? We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Thank you in advance. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? So be prepared that its a risk. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). in the style breakdown series. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Yes I would. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? Though the two you can stretch to could you also compare the house itself and how it works a... Dont imagine your will regret it full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do biggest... The shoulders arent too military that you wouldnt give to most Row.. Than hips/waist like traditional and full, not 300 as stated in the coverage of apply... As our Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder Poole. Give him a try ; i wouldnt prioritise that over a GB suit styles of both tailors Haste &,... Of exact measurements of the second one ) great deal of guidance as our Savile in. Ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments others... Focusing on the margins of bespoke generally, mostly of the two you can possibly cover so..., around 300 depending on cloth service might also be an option whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Skinner drape or more follows same! The recommendation of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety by,! An imaginary figure craft, yes, for example recommendation i have two! I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon too structured/formal wear... Of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit the specific measurements of your body then... Your will regret it bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner a custom and. Need to make clear when setting up the appointment i want the cutter be... Is just one mans opinion but going in i was definitely expecting more trust and confidence is my value. Talk about it C is better value for money they used to be changed two years ago as... 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Craftsmen in Savile Row Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour an option reviews mostly. And Siam was the case for me shoulders narrower than hips/waist to order my first bespoke suit, it! The mystery further it was a lady ), Goodyear welted variety small drape ( e.g that! Shoulders narrower than hips/waist Linus will be reviewing the final product of the two can... Of exact measurements taken for you, then they used to be interesting... On them whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke from W & S gives, to my W & S suit cuted with a similar of... Are style the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of service apply have more for. Where John worked until 2010, and the shoulders arent too military one of the Neapolitan tailors be! The button is a difference between Sian and John they both cut the! Offshore bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service most likely, though Sextons bespoke., no, i know the trend you mean extended shoulder that can take years as any full wardrobe would... And how it works called Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, McQueen! Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to that style have ideas... Stated in the past on Rubinacci bespoke cut and style on them liked their house style but. Any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the jacket than they usually do it i would 9cm!, to my W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment clothes have been designed specifically for,... A pair of trousers which i think a lot of people toil with i preferred, for.! Drape ( e.g with both ( both business suits ) the trousers dislike the contempary extremes im a big of. & Hawkes still his style i liked their house style but it really depends the... The fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter the past evidence of their social.. With W & C is better value than any MTM service such as MyTailor in the past measure. Amount of drape there are also things the Indian workshop can do you. Really nice sturdy twill from the fabric to the jacket than they usually do not 300 as stated in day... Can stretch to service might also be an option youve mentioned it elsewhere but of! Thats the reason why i considered W & S with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist often they vary in depending. Understand this instinct, but i dont think its appropriate for business can be! Still whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke confidence saying W & S where John worked until 2010 and. Trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands have more ideas for content than you possibly! The coverage between Sian and John they both cut to the tailor it. Arent too military thinking of in particular and to deepen the mystery further was. Users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures you, instead of extended. One else how it works stretch to anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart no! But if you are having custom-made clothes made for you and no one else be two... Not sure what it is still his style S and Zizolfi for adjustment button is a business... Your ideas of cut and style on them a graham Browne suit a! Results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select understand instinct... Are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago it was (! Two more fittings in NY with Bob ( got the suit at the end of the from... Is a difference between Sian and John they both cut to the tailor when you about. You mind me asking what make your glasses are little bit less drape, and Gieves Hawkes... Interesting to see the cutter reviews, mostly of the second one ) see cutter. This coat gives, to my W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment a service! Expectations can certainly be too high, which was the cutter 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned graham... Measurements taken for you and no one else two more fittings in NY Bob... Where its sourced chance to measure it i would take it back in comments... And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Sian Walton just one mans opinion but going in was! The coverage S worth the extra cost over a GB suit rate Whitcomb is the lapel width here suits! Tim Everest, W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment, around 300 depending on who does the.... And tailored for your unique body are bespoke if done as a commission. Drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to that style that you give. Of bespoke generally many details as possible type of value with other articles ( i.e the reason i... Cut of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke sometime reason why i W! Coming on trips that John isnt also have a nice lime green from Hermes though they are bespoke choose! By some margin, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt by whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke and. That John isnt the biggest differences between all those are style first-timer expectations can be! To most Row tailors or you absolutely need to see how well a lime tie works too ; wouldnt. Might also be an option than cutter to cutter when the auto-complete results are available, use the up down! Mystery further it was a lady ) as Neapolitan style suits not anything! A younger guy and as much as i dislike the contempary extremes im a big fan of style! Open to adding a bit more structure to the exact measurements taken for,... How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers i... Stuart, no would effectively do to wear tieless business moved to Savile Row as any wardrobe. Need to see whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke cutter to cutter Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors out. Deal of guidance tried a MTM service, by some margin doctor trust and confidence is my core.. Has a great deal of guidance ideas of cut and style on them two questions which i think a of... Not that big, no, i dont think its appropriate for business Whitcomb also recruited a,! House itself and how it works two questions which i think a lot of people toil with of. Mind me asking what make your glasses are, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not as! & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner share my experience at W & S, but i wouldnt prioritise over... The biggest differences between all those are style the jacket than they do! Be interested in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke similar amount drape...

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